Loud Or Quiet Mac OS

1. Loud Or Quiet Mac Os Sierra
2. Loud Or Quiet Mac Os X
3. Loud Or Quiet Mac Os Pro
4. Loud Or Quiet Mac Os Catalina
5. Loud Or Quiet Mac Os Update

Peter Mac - Waste No Time. Unlike Pluto - Mindless Bliss. Djane Housekat - Paint The Night. I3vax & Miaa - The Quiet One. If your Mac is clean and grime-free and you are keeping your apps and tabs in check and the fan is still spinning frequently and loudly, then try resetting the System Management Controller (SMC). Jan 30, 2020 You might hear fan noise when this happens, especially if you're in a quiet environment. This rushing-air sound is a normal part of the cooling process. Ambient temperature, the temperature outside the device, also plays a role in the fans' responsiveness. If the ambient temperature is high, the fans turn on sooner and run faster.

Note that this is not a universal fix, although it has been reported elsewhere. Stay with you mac os. For instance, this does nothing on mine.
On my MacBook Pro, there are three distinct noises:
1) A quiet hum from the upper left, which is always there
2) A quiet buzzing when running on battery power
3) A high-pitched whine when running on anything but full screen brightness
Now, before anyone panics about these, the only one I can usually hear is the first one, and it's more white noise than anything else.

The screen noise is a bad power inverter. Apple knows about it (according to Apple Discussions) and will repair it. The cpu cycling is fixed by PhotoBooth, Mirror Widget etc because it keeps a more even (power hungry) load on the cpus, opposed to running the cpu, powering it down, running it, 1000 times a second. I guess some cpus are more sensitive to this (or the switching power supply to the cpu)

I have problem #3 and the camera on trick doesn't work for it. I was told by an apple store 'genius' that it is probably a bad power inverter and that I should have my machine considered DOA and he gave me a fedex label to send it back and that they would send me a whole new machine (who knows if it is going to fix the problem. I'll just keep sending it back until it does). There is a ton of people talking about this on the apple discussion forums so it is a really common problem. Can you say brand new hardware? =)
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=1831110
In fact, here is a pretty good recording of the high pitch noise I was hearing that is refereced from the link above. It's painful to work with.
http://homepage.mac.com/jimdufek/mbp/movies/squeal_noise.mov

So I've had my MBP for over a week now and never noticed any hissing until reading this little 'hint'.
I have to say, the only way I was able to really hear it was to mute the tv, turn off the other computer in the room and put my ear within 1' of the camera, and THEN I was able to hear it. Yes, it goes away when I open Photo Booth or some other camera app.
So it seems like if you don't have your ear an inch away from the camera and have a ambient room decibal value above that of outter space, it isn't an issue.

Cancel that - noise #2 disappears when using Photo Booth, or when disabling one of the processors. Noise 3 is still present.
Hmmm - still not sure if it's significant enough to warrant replacement. Mine is nowhere near as loud as the others on the discussion - it probably wouldn't be audible in a busy Apple store. However, in my quiet office (with a few fans running but little else) I can hear it.
I just hope it doesn't turn into something nasty the day after the warranty expires. :(

I've heard this story several times now. It seems very odd to me, but I have no way to test it because I don't have an MBP.

Even better solution: download the Mirror widget: http://www.apple.com/downloads/dashboard/webcams/mirror.html
Start it up in dashboard. The sound goes away. Close the mirror widget. iSight turns off, but the sound stays gone.
I don't know why it works but it does. I can even put my MBP to sleep and when it wakes up, the sound is still gone. Only restarting requires re-doing the mirror widget trick.
(note: this will not solve the problem with the MBPs that have the buzzing defect caused by a bad screen inverter)

I forgot to mention that this doesn't tax the CPUs at all (at least not measurably with Activity Monitor) once you've turned the mirror widget back off.
Sound stays gone until restart. No penalty.

So I downloaded the mirror widget, briefly started it up, removed it from the Dashboard and then deleted it entirely.

The sound has gone. Disconnect power, no change. Reconnect power, no change. Send MacBook to sleep -like so - wake it back up again, and the sound still hasn't returned.

Wow.

I thought it was some strange hardware thing, like a tiny, shrieking fan which changed behaviour depending on what the processor was doing - but maybe not. It's gone! (For now.)

Many thanks for your discovery; I'll be keeping a copy of the mirror widget thingy around for until Apple sorts out a software fix. ;-)

Hmm. Seems like having it in a non-VVRRRT-ing state uses the battery more quickly I had an estimate of ~2:54 instead of the usual 3:30 on a near-full battery.
Started Photo Booth up again, quit it and the sound is back - and the battery life estimate is back to 3:30 again. Odd.
(This was a HIGHLY unscientific test, and may be complete rubbish!)

Going off your comments, I just did the same thing. Started up Photobooth, quit it, the sound came back. Checked my battery life estimate, it said 2:04. Did the mirror widget trick. Sound went away. Battery life said 2:10. So I actually was getting estimated longer battery life. Maybe it's just the error in the estimates that happened for you and higher for me? At some point I'll try it again (multiple times) and see if the battery life estimates change.
Either way, it's better battery life with the mirror widget trick, then just leaving photobooth or iChate running with the iSight on, right?

OK. Round 2:
Better battery life setting: 3 different attempts: (switching rapidly)
begin (mirror widget, no noise): 1) 2:50 2) 2:46 3) 2:46
after photo booth start and stop: 1) 2:38 2) 2:48 3) 2:47
after redoing mirror widget trick: 1) 2:46 2) 2:40 3) 2:47
So far, it seems to be just statistical error in battery life error.
Better battery life setting: 3 different attempts: (counting to 10 between steps)
begin (mirror widget, no noise): 1) 2:37 2) 2:35 3) 2:25
after photo booth start and stop: 1) 2:40 2) 2:36 3) 2:34
after redoing mirror widget trick: 1) 2:36 2) 2:44 3) 2:34
Still seems like estimate errors. I guess a better measurement would be to monitor the battery life over the course of say, 1 or 2 hrs with and without that noise.

I received my MacBook Pro (2GHz) on Wednesday. I had read about the hissing noise and sure enough shortly after unpacking and playing with the machine I noticed it as well. Ah well, I thought, let's give it a run to see the performance before I send it back.
I was compiling code while loading up World of Warcraft (believe it or not, I had 30+ fps while compiling mysql.) and spent a whole evening putting load on the machine. Very much later (after WoW and the TV were off again) I suddenly noticed that the hissing noise was gone!
Previously, the only way to get rid of it was dimming the display until it was off. I'm not sure which category of hissing that falls in but at least in my case it seems like some 'burning in' of the machine got rid of it. (Yeah, I know how unrealistic that sounds, but what are the chances my hearing degraded that same night ;))
I am *very* happy with the machine's performance and they'll have to pry it from my dead cold fingers if they want it back ;)
Sven

Am I the only one who thinks 5% for something you're not using is a 'big hit'?
(This is not a comment on the usefulness of the hint itself. I don't even have a MBP.)

Considering that another proposal to fix it was turning off the second core via the CHUD cpu preference panel I'd say it isn't so bad.

Wow! I was just at the Apple store last night because this was pissing me off.
The On Hand Nerd's response. 'It's just the fan'
My solution is a little simpler, but has a bigger impact on speed.
Install the Developer Tools, and add the CPU Tool to the menu bar. Turning off Core-2 causes the MBP to go silent. I turn CPU-2 back on when I need the extra power.
I've called apple on this twice now, and I am trying my best to get a silent replacement.

I had the same problem (screen). Solved it by squeezing the lower end of the screen, the one near the magsafe and tilting the screen few times. It will probably come back, but no noise for a week could be a good sign.

A good trick seems to be to run Mirror Widget until the hissing sound disappears but instead of closing it afterwards, just hit the i (prefs) button on the widget. This will cause the widget to flip over and not use any cpu. Next time you want to shut the hiss up just flip the Mirror Widget back on just for as long as it takes.

Of the two solutions he provides at the bottom of this page:
http://www.red-sweater.com/blog/macbook-pro-noise-complaints/
I've found that the QuietMBP solution works great.
The MagicNoiseKiller (similar to the MirrorWidget trick) didn't work for me at all, unfortunately.

It's not a secret that MacBook doesn't have the best sound system among laptops. Very often the sound of some YouTube videos is so low, so I have to put the MacBook on my chest to hear when I am in a noisy environment. I researched various ways to amplify sound on MacBook and here is what I found.

So, how to make Mac volume louder than maximum?

There are multiple ways to make Mac volume louder, ranging from DIY equalizers to paid tools such as Boom 3D and its alternatives. There also browser plug-ins to which amplify sound when watching YouTube or Netflix in Chrome. However, those tools can might damage MacBook speakers.

Is this an OS problem?

I read in some forums that the problem with the low sound level on Macs is because Apple intentionally limits the max volume to protect the speakers. To test this hypothesis I used the MacBook with both macOS and Windows (Bootcamp) installed.

I used NIOSH Sound Level Meter to measure the sound output. I also used the same video on YouTube and the same browser (same version) with all sound controls set to maximum. While I understand that this is not the perfect setting it's as close I could get.

During the test, I found that macOS was louder than Windows by 10.3 dB. Another myth debunked!

macOS settings

Before trying to use non-traditional methods make sure that the settings on the MacBook are properly set. If they are not then simply settings them properly may be enough at this point.

Go to System Preferences (link) and click on the Sound panel. In the dialog box click on Sound tab

First, make sure that the Balance is set in the middle. If you move the Balance all the way to the left then right speakers will be muted.

Next, make sure that the Mute box is unchecked. If it is checked then obviously will be no sound at all.

If you check the box 'Show volume in the menu bar' then you will be able to control the volume level from the menu bar. Moving the volume slider in this dialog or from the menu bar has the same effect as using F11/F12 keys on the keyboard or volume control on the Touch Bar.

Tip

If you are using F11/F12 keys the volume level changes in big increments, so it is hard to set the exact sound level you need. In this case, use hold Shift and Option (Alt) keys with F11 and F12. You will be able to change the volume in quarter increments and get the precise volume level.

MacBook volume suddenly low

Sometimes the sound volume gets low all of a sudden.

While there are multiple reasons for this the two most common fixes when MacBook volume suddenly drops are:

1. Force Quit all applications or restart the computer.
   Some applications take control of the speakers and do not properly release them. It happens with Safari a lot. Another application that has this problem is Team Viewer.
   With TV you can either force quit after the session or uncheck the 'Computer sound' option. Restarting the computer is another way of quitting all applications.
2. Reset NVRAM/PRAM and SMC.
   NVRAM and PRAM keep a lot of settings in the memory including some information about speakers. When those settings got corrupted they may prevent changing the sound volume on MacBooks.

If you need instructions on resetting them check my other article: 18 Ways to Fix MacBook Black Screen

How to increase volume in iTunes

If iTunes is your main app to listen to the music and podcasts or watch movies there is a way to boost its volume.

Loud Or Quiet Mac Os Sierra

Start iTunes. And then either go to Equalizer item from Window menu or use Command+Option(Alt)+E key combination.

This will bring up an Equalizer window where you can either choose a preset (the default is Flat) or boost all frequencies manually. I decided to do the latter and compare volume before and after with the same music file.

When I only increase Preamp to the max the volume did increase by about 4dB according to my app. The sound was noticeably higher and at times painfully so for my ears.

When I maxed out all frequency bands the sound got distorted, but the volume got higher by an additional dB (5dB total).

Note: I am not a sound expert so I used the sound test I found from the internet which was already recorded on a very high level. It is possible that if I had the sound file with a lower level I would get even better results.

But the point of the exercise does not accurately measure the sound but rather find out ways to boost the sound on the Mac beyond the max.

Other media players

If you watching downloaded movies or DVD I recommend trying another very popular app – VLC media player. You can download a DMG file (installation package) from here.

Right off the bat VLC is louder then iTunes by about 2.5dB (in my test) if you just set the volume of the player to the maximum.

Then if you go to VLC Preferences and click on Audio tab, there will be an 'Always reset audio start level to' setting which by default is set to 100%. I moved it up all the way to 200% and tested the sound again. This time the gain over base iTunes level was 5.5dB.

Then I found VLC Equalizer.

To get to it go to Window menu and then click on Audio Effects or simply use Shift+Command+E key combination. I enabled Preamp and set it to the max. This time the level was higher by 6.5dB over base iTunes measurement. I had to use headphones for testing to avoid damaging my ears.

Raising Youtube and Netflix volumes

While we found out the way to boost volumes for music and movies played by iTunes and other media players it doesn't help with YouTube clips or Netflix movies because they require internet browsers to watch.

Fortunately, if there is a need to do something in Chrome there is almost always a plug-in for it. One of the best Chrome extensions for this purpose is 'Ears: Bass Boost, EQ Any Audio!'.

After installing it in Chrome click on the new icon in the extension bar. The configuration menu can also be opened in the full window.

What is a casino marker. The basic version of the extension is free, but if needed one can upgrade to Pro version for $0.99 per month. Anime heroes mac os.

Again, I compared the sound volume of YouTube clip before and after volume boost in Ears plug-in.

And yes, the plug-in has delivered. The boost from the free version was about 5.3dB.

So, if you looking to increase volume on anything you watch or listen on Chrome browser then Ears extension is exactly what you need.

So far we explored some options to boost sound in specific applications on Mac: iTunes, VLC, browsers. But I don't want to have multiple ways to do the same, I want to have one way to boost audio system-wide.

Is this possible? The answer is yes. First, let's review some paid tools and then see if we can find some free alternatives.

Commercial apps to boost audio system wide

Audio Hijack from Rogue Amoeba

Audio Hijack was on the market for many years. It has lots of functions including capturing audio from any app and device on Mac, podcast recording, etc.

I am only interested in the volume pumping functionality the app provides. The app is very expensive: $59 for a single license, but they allow me to download a trial version which I used for testing.

After download click on New session, choose Increase volume from the Templates. I tested 2x and 4x override options. Again, I used iTunes clip, but first I turned off equalizer settings.

At 2x boost the sound level increase by 3.6dB (almost the same as iTines with Preamp), at 4x it was even higher by 5.6dB (a little less than VLC media player maximum).

Boom 3D

Another paid app is Boom 3D from Global Delight. They used to have quite popular Boom 2 app which was discontinued.

The new app costs less than Audio Hijack: $39.99. I don't know how often they do promotions, but at the time of writing they were selling their app for $19.99 ($20 discount).

Similar to Audio Hijack Boom 3D can be downloaded as a 30-day trial version. But unlike the app from Rogue Amoeba Boom 3D requires installation.

After the installation, you need to restart your Mac (very annoying) because Boom replaces the built-in output with its own driver.

After restarting the Mac they ask to sign up on the logon screen. You can skip sign up part by clicking on the button in the top right corner, which I did to avoid giving them a bogus email.

But boy, it was worth all the hassle. I move the boost level to the max and ran the same iTunes test and Boom 3D came out as a winner. The increase was highest with 7.3dB total improvement.

Another cool thing about Boom: they provide application level audio control. It's very handy when you want to have iTunes play back on the background, but need incoming messages from Slack be loud so they don't get lost.

To uninstall Boom click on hamburger icon in the top right corner, select About and at the bottom of About screen click on 'Uninstall Boom 3D' button.

Boom 3D alternatives

Some users recommended EqMaq2 as an alternative to Boom 3D.

Installation process is even more demanding than Boom's. First, it required a driver update, then permissions to change the system. Fortunately, it didn't require restart this time.

First, I thought it increases the volume too, but it only works as an equalizer. So if you need a system wide equalizer (for instance, when you run Spotify) then EqMaq2 could be a perfect tool for the purpose.

What's good about EqMaq2 is that it's free because it's an open source software. Obviously, donations are welcome because even open source developers need money.

Another thing I liked about EqMaq2: it was easy to uninstall by clicking on Uninstall button on the main screen.

Loud Or Quiet Mac Os X

DIY booster (free)

Since EqMaq2 did not do what I needed, and I didn't want to pay for commercial apps I decided to try a DIY option.

Loud Or Quiet Mac Os Pro

The steps are following:

Loud Or Quiet Mac Os Catalina

• Install Soundflower
• Install AU Lab. AU Lab was an application that comes with macOS in Applications/Utilities, but in Mojave it was removed. Now you can download it from iTunes page.
• Just unzip the file and start it.
• AU Lab will ask access to Microphone, so you have to give the access in Preferences -> Security and Privacy panel, Microphone section.
• Now in Sound panel in Preferences change the Output from Built-in to Soundflower 2ch.
• Back in AU Lab in Stereo In/Stereo Out factory configuration set Audio Input Device to Soundflower (2ch).
• In Output Settings change Audio Output Device to Built-in Output.
• Click on Create Document button.

Well, the results were more than underwhelming. The sound thru AU Lab was in fact 9dB lower than with iTunes baseline!

Loud Or Quiet Mac Os Update

Word of caution

I must say that some of the boosters are very effective, so I need to warn readers about two things:

When I was researching this topic I found several users complaining that Boom and other apps damaged their MacBook speakers. I believe they were trying to use MacBook as DJ equipment.

If you need super loud music I suggest to buy good external speakers instead using volume booster apps. Aroom mac os. The good reason to use latter is to raise the volume of audio files which were recorded on a low level.

Any sound over 85dBA can cause hearing damage. If you are in the environment where the noise is over 85dBA for 8 hours the damage to the hearing can be permanent. The legend of pahlawan jaya mac os. The level of 100dBA can cause permanent damage after 15 minutes!

Conclusion

If you need to boost the volume level in iTunes you can do it inside the app. The boost you get is comparable to the most commercial apps.

If you need to improve the audio of YouTube or Netflix videos install Ears Chrome extension and watch the movies in the Chrome browser.

If you need system wide volume booster go with Boom 3D. It's cheaper than Audio Hijack and provides the most powerful boost from all solutions we covered in this post.